This island of Taiwan is under constant threat of annihilation by China. One afternoon air raid sirens went off all over town for almost an hour, to test the Emergency Response System.

All streets were cleared of traffic and pedestrians prevented from walking. Resigned to their fate, they retreated to the shade or air-conditioned shops. Many sat on ledges or the curb and closed their eyes. Stores were commanded to shut down their shopping music and people even stopped talking. Suddenly everything in this noisy city became very quiet and calm except for the wailing of the sirens.

Looking around at the placid faces of my street mates, many with their eyes closed, and at the empty Chung Shan Road, it struck me that this was like a government mandated, mass meditation session.